Sunday, March 1, 2009

Back To Princess of Ports

It was a few minutes past the hour of seven in the morning of February 22. The taxi was taking the Villamor Air Base main road just passing the Nichol's Interchage on my way to Ninoy Aquino International Airport Terminal 3. I was bound to Puerto Princesa City to visit my parents for their 53rd birthday. I got two days leave plus another two days off. Surprisingly, there was no traffic all the way to the Airport. I needed to check in at least two hours before the scheduled departure at 0945. I got a 2-way ticket from Air Philippines for only P4,100 ($85). Not bad for the start of summer when tickets were like gold. Terminal 3 was just recently opened for domestic flights. It had been the mother of all controversies way back in the 90's to then President Fidel Ramos and was just cleared for operation sometime last year.

The terminal was huge. I can say that Terminal 2 (Centennial) was big and nice but this was twice the size and beauty compared to it and Terminal 1 (Old Domestic). It was so big that you have to take the elevator and walk down the long hall way just to find your station which was normally an easy thing in other terminals. One noticeable thing was the unfinished portions of the building and still some unoccupied stalls/kiosks in the food alley. The "restaurant" section didn't even offer anything more than Jollibee. I can simply tell these were signs of a newly opened business. But overall I would rate the Terminal 3 very good. Checking in my luggage I was shocked to find out that my flight was delayed until 1 PM. I asked the desk why I wasn't informed ahead so I didn't need to rush from my office at 5 in the morning to pick up my stuff from my pad and to the airport. I could have taken a couple of hours of sleep since I was coming from a night's shift. He said he wasn't sure why I didn't get a call so I pulled out my phone and checked my call registry and there I found one unanswered call from an unknown number sometime in the afternoon the day before, it could have been the airlines. How come I missed it, I must be sleeping at that time. Since the new terminal was not any closer to any malls or commericial establishment and it was just 7:30 in the morning I didn't have any choice but to get in and find something to do. I ended up talking to another early bird, a businesswoman from Puerto Princesa, got some tips on the current business trend in Palawan and the local situation. I also took pictures of the building's long hallways and big windows and later on playing games on my notebook since there was no Wi-fi yet in the area.

The plane finally took off at around 2 PM, an hour late than the supposed 1PM schedule. Packed lunch was distributed anyway to all passengers at the terminal. The 50-minute flight to Puerto Princesa was generally smooth and fine. The sky was clear for a good view of the over crowded Metro Manila, the fish cages in Laguna de Bay, the long and winding roads of Batangas and Cavite and later on the mountain ranges of Palawan and its beautiful coastline. I was able to get out of Puerto Princesa Airport by 3:30PM and took a tricycle to my parents' home near the Pier, some 10 minutes from the airport. Tricycle rides were on a flat rate of 60 bucks and could carry four passengers. Nobody didn't know I was coming except for my youngest brother to make it a real surprise for my parents.


Four days weren't enough to see (again) the beautiful places in Puerto. But four days were good enough to have some fun and adventure. Instead of going to famous spots like Underground River or El Nido which would really consume a lot of time, I decided to keep my sightseeing close so I can spend more time with my family since I would only see them once every year. I suddenly thought of doing the thing I used to do when I was still living in this majestic city, mountain biking! I found one bike-for-rent shop in Baywalk, a newly built boulevard which was just a stone's throw away from my parent's place. Seemed like the city's version of Manila's Baywalk at the back of Mall of Asia though a lot smaller. The shop's owner, Mang Mar Nicolas, had some 20 to 30 units of ordinary bikes and most are for children. Rental was Php25.00 per hour and could only be used within the Baywalk's limits. I told him I wanted to go to White Beach which was located at the fringes of the city and I was willing to pay extra. He was charging me P500 for it but I said no way. That's too high. Due to some bargaining and I found out he knew my dad, this was a small town by the way, he let me have his best bicycle, this one has a suspension at the rear, for only P100 for two hours. Nice guy. He should have known I am a salesman myself.

I went by bike from Baywalk to the Cathedral near the City Port. Right across the Immaculate Church was the Plaza Cuartel where a lot of American POWs were burned to death by the Japanese Kempeitai in WWII. Then I rode down to Roxas Street passing the oil depots, the city's Old and New Cemeteries, until I reached the gate of Naval Forces West detachment in Parola (lighthouse). I wonder if I could come inside and take photos of the lighthouse and maybe climb up the staircase for a better view of Puerto Princesa Bay but the sentry looked tough and was busy texting. So I made a u-turn back to the cemetery, turned right to the road going to White Beach and wheeled almost a kilometer, passing the famous Badjao Seafront Restaurant, until I reached the big dilapidated marker to the city's most accessible beach. It was amazing to find out that after all these years, the wooded area leading to the beach is still home to some birds and maybe some animals. Along the downhilly, winding, 200-meter stony road, I chanced upon an elusive bird the size of a chicken. It had brown feathers and was sporting a long thick tail. I immediately alighted from the two wheeler and grabbed my camera. Just like any wild birds it was so quick to fade inside the forest. I waited for her to make some scratches so I could locate her and tried to play some bird's chirp to see how she would react. She suddenly hopped from the grass to a shrub which I can't capture in my camera because the area was thick with grass, shrubs, and Acacia trees. I took pictures of the road and the big Acacia instead.


The entrance fee to the beach was a measly P20.00. Open cottages/picnic groves can be rented for P200.00. It was Monday afternoon and there were only four tourists who were already walking down the long wooden panel traversing the mangroves on the way out. It was low tide and the roots of the mangroves were visible. I took pictures of them and the stilts that used to hold the kubo (nipa hut) by the sea. There was one the last time I was here some 5 years ago. Surprisingly the beach we all used to know as White Beach is now divided into two sections marked by a fence in the middle. Stories said it is now subject of dispute to the family who owns it. One part calls it Nasin-Aw Beach the other one calls it Pristine Beach though they practically share the same waters. They have their separate entrances by the way. Family feud.


I pedaled my way up back to the main road and passed by the big white house surrounded by now tall mahagony trees. They were not this thick and tall 5 years ago. The house was visible from the ferry when approaching and leaving the Bay. Half a kilometer away parallel to the coast, I drove straight to Aventura Beach which reminded me of the song "Ventura Highway" from the Eagles. I used to bike in this area while whistling to the tune. I even called this place "Ventura Highway" back then, yes just like the title of the song . This was a short 300-meter stretch of asphalt road, now really crooked, lined up with coconut trees to the right down the beach and by tall shrubs and low second growth trees to the left. Some trails were evident amidst cogons and shrubs. I wonder if there were houses behind the grass or maybe I could go inside and try to discover some good bicycle trails. Wisdom told me not to dare trespass on somebody's property. I then pedaled on the asphalt and went back to the Bay. I reached Baywalk at around 6PM but it was still a little bit bright so I decided to hang out a bit and waited till it was dusk to take some pictures of the area. I bumped into an old friend, Gener, a trekking body in college and another Bob Marley disciple who now runs his sailing business in Puerto. He operates a customized out-rigger boat with sail for those who love sea adventures like island hopping, snorkeling, and even dolphin watching. You can view info at http://salatan7.multiply.com/ .


Third day, I took the whole family to Honda Bay. Locals now repute the name to be "Hunda Bay". Guides said that "hunda" refers to a deep and beautiful place under the sea. We were off to Snake Island, actually it was a sandbar shaped like a snake. It wasn't true that the name suggests it was home to numerous snakes. Snake island was so good to see lots of fish first hand. I mean lots of them. From the big ones (Sergeant fish) which was also our "inihaw" (grilled fish) on the picnic table, to yellow fins, some long-snouted and intimidating swordfish-like fish, to the colorful butterfly fish. You will need an underwater fish guide or manual to name all of them. This was where you swim not just side by side but face to face with the fish. Coolest part was when some of them will go straight to your mask head on. A bit scary but fun. Out of nowhere someone will shout out of both fear and excitement as one fish would take a bite on your leg but of course without harm except for a small scratch. Everybody would chuckle knowing that that tiny naughty fish had just got somebody's leg. Feeding them with crackers which was allowed, would add to the fun. You will definitely see them, school of fish, swirling around your legs. Since the sandbar is managed by the local Department of Environment and Natural Resources, no entrance fee was collected but donations were accepted. Expect hordes of foreign and domestic tourists disembarking from boats every 30 minutes or so. People who were taking the island hopping package would drop by the Snake Island one way or another to snorkel. Boats were rented from P1300.00 for 6 pax and P2700.00 for bigger groups. If you forgot to bring your own mask and and snorkel you can rent from the Tourism Office at the wharf for only P100.00.

Coming in and out the bay, you can make arrangements with the boat crew which islands to see. There were a couple of nice islands to stop over and dip in like Pandan, Luli (lulubog-lilitaw) which would appear sunken during high tide and would re-emerge again at low tide which was also the docking station of Baywatch, the Pambato Reef for more snorkeling adventure where you get towed by the boat while watching the fish underneath, and Starfish Island for kayaking. Not to mention Dos Palmas for those who can afford it.

It was all fun and refreshing to come home from the stressful Manila life. Though it was short and I didn't get to see as many places as I wished, it was enough to say that nature is calling me back once again, back to princess of ports. I am now considering of putting a small tourism business in the city in light of the current job loss in call center industry. I've talked to some of the tour operators in the city, and they revealed that despite the economy's hardships, more and more people are coming to Palawan. Thanks to Underground Rivers' number 1 running to the New Seven Wonders of Nature. Could you imagine that tourist season in Palawan is 9 months in a year? Action starts in September and picks up in December until May. It would slow down in the months of June, July and August. This is a good business calendar. Market? Backpackers, bohemians, budget travelers and outdoor enthusiasts. Got any idea? See ya.