Three Great Weeks

I had another chance to see beautiful places in Palawan. It was five months ago when I last flew there. It was never tiring to witness time and again the grandeur of the country's Last Ecological Frontier. This time, I and a friend, started the journey in Puerto Princesa, the capital city and went up North to Coron and Culion, skipping El Nido this time. Last June, we kicked off our vacation in Coron, then to Culion, El Nido and Puerto Princesa. This time we did it the other way around.

Let me do a travel tip/review of places, hotels, and food this time. This will help you guys if planning to go there too.

First, airfare. Cebu Pacific ranges from Php 1,400 ($30) to Php 7,000 ($152) depending on the availability of seats, season, and the time you purchased the ticket. The plane is divided into price categories so basically all seats have different prices. You are lucky if you can avail the lowest rates since there are no difference in the accommodation once on board (e.g food, no free snacks by the way, tv, pillows, etc.) Flight takes approximately one hour.

Hotels. We first booked ourselves to Turissimo Garden Hotel formerly Airport Hotel. Not too bad for Php 1,300 ($28) with AC and TV and free breakfast but we decided to upgrade to a better room, Php 1,800 ($39) We love windows and porches, by the way and never fans of free breakfasts. One big disappointment was there were no brewed coffee there. They have a small swimming pool but never got our interest. Must be the space factor, the pool is located on the way to the rooms in the back building in a so narrow walkway, not too much of a privacy. After two days we decided to check in at Microtel. Heard so much fuzz bout this new chain of hotels so it was time to check it out. Located in a secluded beach in the outskirts of the city, they will pick you up either from the airport or any hotel you are transferring from once you make a reservation. For Php 4,200 ($92) you can get a room facing the sea, double bed, AC, flat screen TV, telephone, fridge, and free breakfast.Quite expensive, though but it's worth it.  One disapointment, though is the WI-FI which is only available at the lobby. Nice view and cool breeze specially at this time of the year when winds coming from Siberia and Northern China are blown to the country by Northeast Monsoon (Amihan). The beach is fine but the waters isn't really for swimming. Tidal line is so far during low tides exposing mangrove roots and lots of starfish. At night when the tide is high, it is very enticing to swim but the waves are strong. We opt not to dip though for fear of scraping ourselves against the rocks and roots. Good alternative for swimming is the pool but the flooring is plain concrete and not tiles that makes it a little bit slippery and yucky underneath. Their Kilawin Tanigue (Mackerel in vinegar) is great too. The place is quiet and idyllic for honeymooners. I give Microtel Palawan four stars out of five.

Next destination, Sabang/Underground River. This is one truly magnificent work of nature. I hope it could still make it to the New 7 Wonders of Nature. Since we were planning to stay there for at least a week, we decided to stay on a more modest cottage like Green Verde in the main beach as it is more affordable at Php800 ($17) compared to the lofty rates of Daluyon at Php4,450 ($96) per night. There is no power supply in the village until 530 in the afternoon when generators will start running up to 11 in the evening. However, Daluyon runs their generators 24 hours and WI-FI is available in their restaurant. As wise as we are, we checked in at Green Verde, had breakfast and dinner at Daluyon to check mails and send reports. Entrance to the Puerto Princesa River and Subterranean Park, formerly known as Saint Paul Underground River, wass secured from their office in downtown Puerto Princesa, Php200 ($4) for foreigners and Php150 ($3) for locals. Bus or jeepney rides to Sabang is at 200 pesos and would take some two hours. For a more convenient and faster ride specially for those with extra money you can rent airconditioned vans from Php3,500 ($76) to Php4,500 ($97).

After three days of sand, sun, and fun, we decided to head north to Coron via WGA Superferry. We took the Suite for only Php3,500 (two pax). Much better than getting a tourist accommodation for some Php1,500 per person and sharing spaces with another 100 passengers or so in that AC room with double deckers. Not a good idea if you are travelling with some gadgets like laptop and would always go out for a smoke. Just can't leave important things unattended. The voyage took some 15 hours. Was really bored throughout the whole trip but I was able to get lots of sleep though. As usual the food in the ship sucks big time. No choice but to force it inside. We arrived in Coron just after midnight and checked ourselves in everybody's favorite Seadive. We had a reservation for Deluxe for only Php1,800 ($39). The room was nice, clean, but no TV. I wonder why. Wi-fi is only from the restaurant. Not too bad as long as there's connection for emails.

We planned to spend seven days in Corn for relaxation and a day's visit to Culion once again. We made sure that the Museum will be open as we didn't see it last time. Hired a boat going there for P3,500 and stayed a night at Tabing Dagat Lodge. Room rates are between P500 and P700. We really love this island. It gives me a playful imagination that I am living in the 17th century. The town is rustic, quiet, and has a different appeal. People are shy and would never approach you and talk. I guess it's all about the stigma attached to this island once relegated as the island of despair. However, things changed when we started saying hi to people and smile a bit. They smiled back and nod. We felt sorry for all those who've been confined here. On the brighter side, I met one of the Tourism Information Officers, Pastor Hermz Villanueva and told him about my plans of coming back to do some trail riding and hopefully bring other bikers with some assistance from the Local Government. Will tell you if this thing materializes.

Back in Coron, our fave hang out was Kawayanan Grill. We think that they have the best stuffed squid in town or maybe in the entire country. We just loved it so much. Their kinilaw (mackarel or tuna in vinegar) is also great. We don't get tired of eating the same food everyday with matching lato (seagrapes) and of course red wine.

Getting Back Into the Groove

A few weeks even before the infamous typhoon Ondoy  (Ketsena) which drowned most of Metro Manila and made lots mountain bikers itching to hit the trails, I was off the longer and more serious group rides I normaly join. I don't know why lately I prefer to do and seemed to enjoy solo short rides.  Maybe it's because I can play my own clock. Maybe because I don't have to worry about someone else's time and tantrums. I can get up even late and still pedal somewhere without worrying some people were waiting for me. I can speed up at any point of the ride and stop for rests no matter how long and how many. These are the perks that are luring me do solo rides.

However, yesterday Monday Nov. 2nd, waking up late in a clear sunny day, I suddenly felt the urge to ride with a group. Tried to check the calendar and it was still a holiday following the All Saint's Day. I immediately cooked up a ride to Angono in Rizal and then up to Antipolo via backdoor. This is something I've been playing in my head for some time now. A route I stitched together from scanning google satellite images. Sure I've done Angono and nearby towns but the backdoor climb to Antipolo, not yet. This route was also confirmed to me by a former officemate who lives in Angono. So I texted up some people I know that might be interested in this route. But since it's already about 10 AM most of them were already somewhere in the trails doing their rides. I noticed that there was no any organized ride for that day and most rides were in smaller groups in different locations. Fortunately, there was one ride available to join me, Doc Harry who lives a couple of blocks away from me.

We started to pedal quarter to 3 in the afternoon. Took the Rainforest (Pasig) entry to Taytay-Manila East Road. Running at 18km/hr since Doc Harry seemed to enjoy it being first-timer there, we reached the town of Angono just before  4PM. Made a lazy tour around town proper then proceeded to Angono-Antipolo road which is of course uphill. A place is always beautiful on the first time, though there was a dumpsite on the way up. Generally, the route was OK and can be a good training or alternate route for those who might be sick and tired of the normal Antipolo approach which is Sumulong Highway. We reached downtown Antipolo by 5PM and took the Ortigas Extension on the way down. Stopped by Jolibee in Cainta to refuel when suddenly a big downpour started. Reached home around 6:30. My cyclocomp had it at 51kms. Not bad coming from a few weeks lay off. The most recent long I had solo was 40km. This was fun but still far from my usual rides not to mention the century ones. One thing for sure, I might do this again soon wether solo or with a group. Nice loop for a change.

First Time Official

Not Too Late To Float

I had my first day of formal swimming lesson today at Saint Paul College in Pasig under Bert Lozada Swimming School. As the title goes, it's never too late to learn how to swim.

Living in archipellagic country gives an impression that people there are good swimmers. But not really. Lots of Filipinos aren't good swimmers. How many times I've heard foreigners say they were surprised to learn that many of us can't swim well. Aside from the dream of joining triathlon this also challenged me to enroll myself in a swimming class, a little bit late for my age though. I'm taking the Adult Novice Program for basic skills, basic paddling, kicking, breathing. This is a 10-hour course in a once a week session/1 hour or 1.5 hours per session. I'm doing the latter so I can gain some skills in time for my next Palawan adventure in December.

My problem in the water is that I never learned how to swim properly. I didn't grow up near any body of water. But I can do snorkeling pretty well without the vest. Just the mask and me there I go. The funny part is I can snorkel good enough if my head is under water that's why I need the mask so I can breathe. If I put my head above the water I go sink down the bottom. If you put me in a 5-foot deep pool there's no way I would float. But throw me in a 20-foot ocean then I go paddling like a dog back to the boat. I can even give you a good plunge head first like a real swimmer into the salty water. I do really need to correct it and start with the basic. High school classmate Let Guieb and wife of fellow biker Eric told me about the swimming class that she herself went into. She told me she really learned how to swim after the course. After today's session, I wanted to believe I would still be able to float well after completing the program. On my first day, I was able to do a 25-meter stretch freestyle with just two stops. My coach, Vivian told me I was a fast learner except that my legs were so stiff. I guess it's the result of too much biking.

First Official Birdwatching

Last Sunday I was able to do my first official birdwatching with Alice Villa-Real, Vice President of Wild Bird Club of the Philippines (WBCP) and Dr. Rene Callado at University of the Philippines grounds. I biked my way to the campus which was 15 km away from my pad so coming back and forth gave me a good 30 km exercise. Better than no miles at all. I was able to observe the White-collared Kingfisher, Brown Shrike, Pied Thriller, Phil. Pygmy Woodpecker, Zebra Dove, White-breasted Wood swallow, Low-land White-eye and Yellow-vented Bulbul. Too much for a first timer to see eight "lifers". A lifer is what professionals refer for any bird you see first time as a birdwatcher.

Photos courtesy of Starbird

More Century Rides

Lately, my rides seemed to be longer and harder. I guess my overall biking was improving. Last Saturday I joined the Philippine Mountain Biking Forum (Philmofo) on a ride to Sta. Inez, in Tanay, Rizal. The route was along Marcos Highway in Lower Antipolo passing the town of Baras and down the trail of Barangay Cayumbay of all the way to Sta. Inez which was already part of the town of Tanay. Trail head was some 30 km from the meet-up are at Jollibee in Marcos Highway in Marikina. It was located at Sitio Batangas which was about 6 km before reaching Sierra Madre Hotel.Going to the meet up area was already a good warm up for my legs since it was some 12 km from my pad in Pasig-Makati-Pateros area. Every biker knew that this route to the hotel was only half of what was called Sierra Madre Loop which was the training grounds for most riders of Metro Manila specially for roadies since it's a long and hard climb.    (Photo to the right courtesy of Mountguitars, Philmofo. All other pictures were taken from my Canon PowerShot A470)

The ride was generally fun but I can't understand why most member of this club seemed to enjoy racing against each other. Based on my counting there we crossed Sta. Inez River eight times. After the seventh crossing and more than an hour of pedaling in a valley with beautiful view of the Sierra Madre Range, I and another rider decided to backtrack. Five of us were on the middle group now sipping soda from one of the houses along this riverine trail. The lead pack passed this point about 15 minutes ago according to the store owner. Locals told us that it still some 1 hour and a half to get to the falls. It was getting cloudy up there, I reckon. I didn't want to get stuck in that place if the rains started to pour in the mountain which would flood the river as a result. Some part of the river we crossed earlier had strong currents and about thigh deep. Can't imagine how bad it would be when it rains. Reached home about 8:00 in the evening. My cyclocomp registered 121 km. Was dead tired.

A week ago, I was able to pedal another century via Bugarin Pass in Pililia, Rizal. Obviously by now, Rizal Province is the nearest playground for most bikers in Metro Manila. It offers almost all kind of terrain for biking. I had 114 km this time, matching the miles I made during the Licao Ride five months ago, my very first century ride. A century ride is when a biker covered at least a hundred kilometers. Bugarin Pass is the zigzag portion of the town of Pililia that connects the provinces of Rizal and Laguna. It has the panoramic view of Laguna de Bay. This is a major route for buses and cars going to Laguna and Quezon Provinces.